Fashion editor and writer Claire Coghlan dishes on the hottest looks seen at the awards shows and the styles worthy of taking to the streets.
We went behind the scenes with fashion editor and writer Claire Coghlan whose work has appeared in the New York Times, LA Times, Variety, InStyle and more. She covers the fashion — and the stylists creating the coveted A-list looks — for awards season and beyond. Here’s her take on the trends from runway to realway.
The fashion trends you’re seeing on the red carpet and backstage…Claire Coghlan: I don’t think the red carpet so much showcases the trends, as it shows where the zeitgeist is, where the needle is pointing — either from or towards. I feel like the needle had been moving further and further in the direction of titillation, reaching a zenith at the Met Gala last year, where some of the dresses were so sheer as to leave virtually nothing to the imagination. This year’s red carpet season thus far has showed that the needle is repositioning itself, shifting toward elegance, sophistication, and celebration of the mystery of the feminine form — the restoration of woman as goddess. Think, Jennifer Lawrence in that gorgeous red Dior dress and Chopard necklace at the Golden Globes — which was both regal and revealing, both youthful and perennial. Or Saoirse Ronan in the pure simplicity of a white Saint Laurent Grecian-inspired gown. Even Lady Gaga was channeling old Hollywood glamour in stunning custom-made Atelier Versace.
It’s striking how much more covered up stars are this season. “Caped” looks at the Golden Globes included Cate Blanchett’s Givenchy Couture by Riccardo Tisci, Emilia Clarke’s Valentino, and Jennifer Lopez in Giambattista Valli. Also, Saoirse Ronan’s baby blue Antonio Berardi at the Critics Choice Awards. At the Globes, too, Julianne Moore opted for long sleeves in stunning midnight blue Tom Ford, as did Jane Fonda in that magnificent Yves Saint Laurent Couture, which managed to be age appropriate, fashion forward AND showcase that amazing body of hers.
Another beautiful trend this season is intricate detailing, as seen on Cate Blanchett, in Alexander McQueen, and Saoirse Ronan, in Burberry, at the BAFTAs; Kate Bosworth, in dazzling pink Dolce & Gabbana at the Golden Globes; Alicia Vikander, in Mary Katrantzou, and Kirsten Dunst, in Chanel Couture, at the Critics Choice Awards.
And for a fun, not-so-covered up approach, you had to love Taylor Swift’s colorful, ab-tastic Versace two-piece at the Grammy Awards, Kate Hudson’s Michael Kors Collection two-piece at the Golden Globes, and Brie Larson’s custom-made Calvin Klein Collection cutout, also at the Globes.
Oscars fashion trends that will stand out…The Oscars isn’t typically a night to set trends; it’s a night to shine. What will stand out this year, I believe, is the range in age, wisdom, talent, breadth and depth of the Best Actress and Best Supporting Actress nominees, who span a spectacular six decades. From 21-year-old Saoirse Ronan (Best Actress nominee for Brooklyn) to 70-year-old Charlotte Rampling (Best Actress nominee for 45 Years), the red carpet will be resplendent with women who are radiating elegance, style, femininity, beauty, intelligence, accomplishment, talent, poise and purpose — at all stages of life. And that’s a rare thing on a red carpet, and a very welcome trend.
As a result, I believe we’ll see some spectacular gowns that reflect the grandeur and the stature of the nominees.
Celebrity stylists making the biggest impact…Interestingly, in tandem with the trend on the red carpet, the stylists making the biggest impact behind the scenes include some of the industry’s most seasoned veterans. I recently chatted with Elizabeth Saltzman and Cristina Ehrlich, who are dressing two of this year’s youngest and most promising stars — Saoirse Ronan and Brie Larson (Best Actress nominee for The Room).
Celebrity stylists that are differentiating themselves and their clients this year…I think there’s a renewed focus on showcasing the individuality, the accomplishment, the personality, and the poise of the star herself. In speaking with both Saltzman and Ehrlich, it struck me how these red carpet veterans are so inspired and invigorated by their young clients. They both shared their awe at the intelligence, the wit, the talent, the maturity, the humility, and the kindness of Ronan and Larson, respectively.
Another element denoting the red carpet this season is the solidarity and the support amongst the female nominees. All the stylists I’ve spoken to have shared how the actresses are supportive of each other in a way that’s quite unprecedented. This is yet another very significant and welcome trend.
The inspirations you see us taking from runway into real life…I think we could all do with injecting more elegance and sophistication into our wardrobes. And embracing the idea of celebrating femininity — in all her shapes, sizes, ages, and life stages. Whether you’re 78-year-old Jane Fonda rocking Yves Saint Laurent Couture ruffles or 25-year-old Jennifer Lawrence looking stately in scarlet Dior (both at the Golden Globes), I think this year’s red carpet is a reminder that true style transcends age. Look at Charlotte Rampling and Helen Mirren — both septuagenarians, both representing the epitome of elegance and feminine allure.
Earlier today, I interviewed stylist June Ambrose, who’s worked with everyone from Jay-Z to Missy Elliott, and she referenced the return of the “modest woman.” Not in a repressed, desexualized way, but in a way that showcases the enigmatic feminine mystique. One of June’s favorite runway-to-real life trends right now is what she calls “in-your-face lace.” She loves the idea of such a provocative fabric being acceptable and wearable in every day life. It’s become he new norm, like denim — you can dress it up or dress it down. Reveal a little or a lot. A little bit of mystery is a beautiful thing.
Up-and-coming stylists we should be looking for…I recently interviewed two fascinating up-and-coming French stylists—Camille Seydoux, sister and stylist to Bond girl Léa Seydoux, and Philippe Uter, stylist to Ludivine Sagnier and Louise Bourgoin. French fashion is leaving its mark in Hollywood right now, what with Hedi Slimane recently showing the Saint Laurent fall collections in LA ahead of Fashion Week, and the close friendships of designers like Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing, who counts Rihanna and the Kardashian clan amongst his tribe, and Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci, whose devotee Beyoncé name drops the label in her new high-fashion video, Formation.
I’m excited to see Arianne Phillips’ work in Tom Ford’s sophomore film, Nocturnal Animals — fresh off her inventive work on Madonna’s Rebel Heart tour.
I’ve been so inspired by Petra Flannery’s work with Gwen Stefani on The Voice, and I’m beyond excited to see what Kemal Harris has cooked up for Robin Wright’s character Claire Underwood when House of Cards returns. And, of course, I can’t wait to see what Jill Lincoln and Jordan Johnson dream up for Jennifer Lawrence come Oscar’s night.
Inspiration you’re getting from celebrity stylists before the events…I’m always inspired when talking with visionaries and creatives who march to the beat of their own drum; artists who have cultivated enduring careers because of their talent, smarts, work ethic, and professionalism. And above all, I’m always struck how — even in the midst of award-season-slash-fashion-week madness — these hard-working pros manage to remain funny, grounded, humble, cool, kind human beings.
Interviewing these celebrity stylists must inspire your own fashion taste and creativity…They constantly remind me that while trends come and go, style is enduring. And personal style is just that — personal. Know thyself. And to thine own self be true (to quote one of my all time favorite muses, Shakespeare.) Style should be an expression of who you are, what you value and what you find beautiful, both in the world and in yourself.
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